For years people have asked me for recommendations on what to do/where to go when visiting London. My method of sending these recommendations has evolved from just yelling things at them excitedly, to a rambling email, to a Google or Excel spreadsheet. Now it’s time to make that spreadsheet beautiful (as if it wasn’t already, spreadsheets are life).
Let me preface this by saying London is HUGE. I’ve visited and lived there multiple times and there’s still so much on my list of things I want to see, but these are the things people generally want to see that I drag myself back to with them (some of the touristy section) and the things I LOVE and go back to over and over.
Do yourself a favor and buy an Oyster card the second you get to London. You can buy them at all tube stations. The tube and buses also take ApplePay (and any other contactless payments) now as well if you want to go that route, but I still love my Oyster.
If you are flying into Heathrow or Gatwick TAKE THE TRAIN. Taxis are expensive and take FOREVER. There are express trains from both airports into Central London and they are life changing. Find them here: Heathrow Express and Gatwick Express. There’s express trains from other airports too, and you can take the tube from Heathrow, but I think the express is worth the money.
Pro Tip: when taking the Tube, don’t speak to other humans, or make eye contact. Just stare at the floor or your phone, don’t be weird.
If you do need to take a car somewhere, definitely go with the Black Taxis. They know their way around much better than Uber. You can even download an app to call them – Gett Taxi App.
Honestly, I don’t have a specific hotel recommendation, but I do usually tell people to stay somewhere in Central London with good access to tube stations. A good spot to be close to the tube and in walking distance to a good number of things that I usually recommend is Holborn. I’ve known people who chose an AirBnB way out of the city, or wanted to stay in Shoreditch to be hip and with it, but then they complained the whole time about having to get back into Central London to do touristy things. So yeah, stay in Central if you don’t want to be on a train or in a taxi the whole time.
There are a couple hotels I do love though, if you want to be a baller (or just go to their bars for drinks while staying at an affordable hotel).
The Savoy and St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel
Alright, here we go. Obviously everyone wants to see Buckingham Palace and wave at the Queen then head on over to Big Ben and the London Eye on their first trip to London. Go for it, have a blast, but here’s some things you might want to know first.
- Big Ben is (tragically) covered in scaffolding for like 3 more years, so you will be disappointed.
- The London Eye is a terrifying death bubble that only has views of Big Ben’s scaffolding. (Okay, I’m afraid of heights. Other people enjoy it, but I don’t think it’s worth the money.)
- You can’t just roll up to the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace any old day. There’s a schedule here, so check that before you go. Also there will be about 1 bajillion people there, so get there early if you want to see.
- If you’re going to go look at the scaffolding, you might as well hit up Westminster Abbey too. You know, if you’re into super old churches with famous dead people buried in the floor (who isn’t?). You can book tickets here and skip the line.
If you plan to hit up a lot of the tourist attractions, you may want to check out The London Pass. It saves you on entry to a lot of places.
Now that I got those things off my chest, here’s my recommended tourist spots.
Instead of the London Eye, go to The View from the Shard. You get a 360 view, you can stay up there as long as you want, you’re not dangling in a bubble of death, there’s bathrooms with views of the Thames, and there’s multiple bars!
Covent Garden. Tourists LOVE Covent Garden. There’s a cute little market, weird street performers (not a fan, but to each their own) and lots of shops in the area. My favorite part of that area is Neal’s Yard. It’s just cute to look at and has one of my favorite pizza places, Homeslice (more on that later).
Tower Bridge: Not to be confused with London Bridge, which is just a normal bridge with nothing actually cool about it. Tower Bridge is a beauty and I will forever be obsessed with it. I just like to stare at it, but you can walk across it, go up in the top of it, and watch it lift from time to time. If you want to know when boats will be going under, check the Bridge Lift Times.
Harrods – This place is chaos, but it’s beautiful chaos. It’s a very popular luxury department store, so get there when it opens to avoid some of the crowds. I just love to wander the food halls, they are amazing.
Tower of London – If you wanna see the Crown Jewels, where a ton of people got beheaded, and some ravens, head on over.
St. Paul’s Cathedral – Probably my favorite building in the city. Everything around it got bombed in WWII, but St. Paul’s was still just standing there like a G. It’s also where the bird lady sells bird food for twopence a bag in Mary Poppins. You can go inside and even up to the top of the dome. Its terrifying if you are afraid of heights, and there’s some uneven ground, so watch out and don’t fracture your ankle… not that I know anyone who did…
Museums
London has an insane amount of museums, and most of them have FREE entry. So if it’s raining, which it often is, museums can be a good time killer, and some of the most beautiful buildings you will see.
My favorites are:
The British Museum – MUMMIES. That’s all I really look at there. They also have the Rosetta Stone and like a million other old cool things.
The Natural History Museum – They have that whale, a sick building, and an ice rink in the winter.
The British Library – Yes, I know it’s not a museum, but they do have a treasures (TRAYsure if you’re a Karen) room full of things like Leonardo DaVinci’s sketchbooks, the Magna Carta, and so many more cool old things that come in the form of books, and it is also free.
Victoria and Albert, Imperial War, Tate Modern, The Churchill War Rooms, and the National Gallery are also popular museums, but there’s seriously SO MANY museums, you could spend the whole trip museum hopping if you wanted.
Skygarden – Just like it sounds, a garden in the sky… with restaurants and a bar. Free entry, but you do have to reserve a time in advance, and it’s very popular so again, book early. They also allow non-ticketed entry in the evening. The times vary though, so check the site before you head for the queue.
Greenwich – Ever heard of Greenwich Mean Time? Well it didn’t come from nowhere. Head up to the Royal Observatory where you can stand in two hemispheres at the same time by standing over the Prime Meridian. It also has killer views from up there. I highly recommend taking a boat to and from Greenwich instead of the train. You get a lot of site seeing along the Thames in that way.
Muggles, look away and skip to the next section!
If you’re a Harry Potter fan, London’s got some good spots for you.
First, and most obviously, Platform 9 3/4 which is located at King’s Cross Station. There is a line to take pictures, but they will take them with a professional camera for you to buy (NOPE), and they will also let your friend, or a stranger, whoever, take pictures with your phone for free. Save some gallions, use your phone. There’s also a Harry Potter shop here.
If you want some fancy Harry Potter souvenirs, head over to House of MinaLima in Soho. They did all the original artwork for Harry Potter, so you can get some really cool prints. Plus the decorations are on point.
MinaLima can be paired nicely if you go see Harry Potter and the Cursed Child, which you should, because it’s AMAZING. Since it has been in London for a while, it’s not as hard to get tickets. They are expensive, but you will not regret it. I’ve seen it 3 times. I’m obsessed. I recommend going on a day where you can see Parts 1 and 2 back to back, with a perfect little break to go browse MinaLima and get some food.
If you want to go all out, you can go to the Harry Potter Studio tour outside of London. They book up FAST, so book quickly. You can also get tours from London from a few different tour companies. I went for one of their special feasts and got to eat in the Great Hall, it’s okay to be jealous. If you’re a huge Potterhead and going to be there around Halloween, Christmas, or maybe Valentines Day, keep an eye out for these feasts. (You can read all about that over on Yer a Wizard, Heather.)
If you want to really feel like a wizard and brew your own potions (drinks) while wearing a robe, hit up The Cauldron. They can’t really SAY they are a Harry Potter bar, but they totally are.
The other locations you may want to see are Millenium Bridge (that the death eaters destroyed in HP6) and Leadenhall Market (some Diagon Alley shots in HP1).
Mischief Managed.
Now we’ve made it to the most important section, FOOD. As someone who gets hangry often, I love to know good food spots. The first thing most people say to me when they heard I was living in London is “isn’t the food awful there?” No, it isn’t. There’s SO MANY choices. Fast food, fancy restaurants, pubs, any international cuisine you can imagine, you just have to know where to look. Here’s some of my favorites.
Breakfast/Brunch
If you know me at all, you know I LOVE a good brunch, especially if its bottomless. Well have I got a place for you. Darcie and May Green in Paddington is my favorite brunch I’ve come across so far in London. Its on a cute boat docked in the canal, it has bottomless bubbles, and the food is amazing. If Darcie and May is booked, don’t worry, Daisy Green has a bunch of restaurants around the city with the same brunch menu, so just explore the other locations on their site! I highly recommend getting the Fancy Bacon Roll and the Banana Bread.
EL&N Cafe – the Instagrammer’s dream cafe. Multiple locations now in Knightsbridge, Mayfair, and Oxford Street. I won’t lie, I love their avocado toast with feta and pomegranate. And who wouldn’t want a latte with lucky charms in it? They also have cute flower walls everywhere, but I’m always too busy eating, check their Insta if you don’t believe me.
Dalloway Terrace – This place is just cute as hell. I only put it as breakfast because thats the only meal I’ve been able to get a booking for, you have to book in advance and be quick about it. Instagram has made this place popular because the terrace’s decorations change with the seasons and it is beautiful.
Gregg’s Sausage Rolls – I was late to the party on this, and I regret every second I spent not eating these glorious things. Gregg’s is all over the city and you can get a sausage roll for 95p. So if you’re on a budget and in a hurry, grab 3 and walk with them.
Fernandez and Wells – another one thats open all day, but I’ve always gone to to get breakfast and do school work. They have locations all over the city, some with better views than others (looking at you, Somerset house at Christmas). Pretty sure they have wine and tapas at other times of day.
Lunch or Dinner or Random times when you can get a booking.
Some of my favorite restaurants are 1) expensive so I don’t go a lot and 2) popular so I end up making bookings or going at weird times, but its totally worth it. Check ’em out!
Sushi Samba – LOVE. LOVE. LOVE. There’s two locations, but honestly don’t even bother with Covent Garden. City is where it’s at. It’s got the views and the scary elevator to get there. Sitting in the restaurant usually requires a booking in advance, but you can always go to the tree bar and get some drinks and Wagyu Gyoza.
Din Tai Fung – YES, they have opened one in London. You haven’t had dumplings until you’ve had Din Tai Fung. No one ever believes me until they’ve tasted these little bundles of joy. GO THERE, you won’t regret it. It’s a popular restaurant in every part of the world it’s in, so there is always a wait, but its worth it. Pork xiao long bao is life, and so are the shrimp and pork wontons in a spicy sauce.
Afternoon Tea
When it comes to afternoon tea, I won’t lie, I’ve been around the block a few times. I go pretty much every time anyone visits, so I’ve been able to try quite a few, here’s my favorites.
1. Claridge’s – book FAR in advance.
2. The Savoy – (not pictured below) I just love any reason to go in the Savoy.
3. Grosvenor House – They used to have a bottomless bubbles afternoon tea. Check this site in case the deal comes back!
4. Fortnum and Mason – Afternoon tea with a scotch egg?! Sign me up.
5. The Royal Horseguards – They’re just doing good things over here.
Desserts
I mean, you really can’t go wrong just taking any Cadbury chocolate bar (Double Deckers and Crunchies are my favs) back to your hotel for some dessert, but if you’re looking for somewhere fun here’s a couple spots I like.
Peggy Porschen Cupcakes – the original parlor is in Belgravia and it is TINY and usually always has a line, but you can also just skip past everyone waiting for seats and get some cupcakes to go. They have also recently opened a Chelsea location that has much more seating, so if you want to sit and enjoy, try that one.
Milktrain Cafe – THAT cotton candy covered ice cream. This place is in Covent Garden, it used to be TINY but they have moved locations, so hopefully you can actually get in the door to order now. The cotton candy is messy, so skip it unless you need it for the gram. Their soft serve is delicious and they rotate flavors.
Other Foods I love
HomeSlice Pizza – I told you we’d be back. 20″ pizzas for £20 in multiple locations around London. Try the lamb and yogurt pizza, it is heaven.
Randy’s Wing Bar – I love anywhere that has good buffalo chicken options. They also have bottomless wings for £14 on Monday evenings. Tower Bridge location is where it’s at.
Beigel Bake – 24 hour bagel shop on Brick Lane. Get the salt beef bagel, be warned the English mustard is aggressive (but in a good way), and bring cash.
Scotchtails – in Borough Market. I LOVE me a good scotch egg, and while you can get them at a lot of pubs, this one might be my favorite, plus you can grab it on the run.
Also, just Borough Market. They have tons of good food options.
Kerb at Camden Market – Kerb is a street food market, they pop up all over the city, but Camden Market is always there, and always delicious. Grab some cheese wheel pasta and some halloumi fries. If you can share with a friend, grab a bunch more and just have a feast. You can also sit and enjoy the atmosphere where the canal comes into the market.
Crème de la Crepe – Located in the Covent Garden Market (downstairs). I became obsessed with this place when I lived in Kensington and there was one in South Ken. Sadly that one has closed, but the Covent Garden location still has a buffalo chicken crepe that is always eaten too quickly to document.
Ranoush and Maroush – I love a good shawarma and Ranoush is my favorite one. You can find Ranoush and Maroush (same menu/ownership) in multiple locations around the city and they are usually open late. I used to go to the Ranoush on High Street Kensington for 2am shawarmas after the bar.
Sunday Roasts – Especially in the winter, getting a roast at the pub is the perfect Sunday activity. Most every pub offers it, so just do some Googling for the best Sunday Roasts in London and see what catches your eye. Just make sure they don’t skimp on the Yorkshire puddings.
Inamo – This place is so fun. It’s sushi and Asian tapas, but you get to order them on a little interactive mousepad that is embedded in your table – so cool. Multiple locations, but I like the Soho one the best. Check their website for promos, and sometimes they have a voucher on TimeOut that offers bottomless food and bubbles for £30 (weekends only). So search the TimeOut website for that!
The Churchill Arms – Notting Hill. This pub is probably on people’s list because it’s that pub with all the flowers, or in the winter, trees, on the outside. Well, hidden inside along with the traditional pub is a weird little Thai restaurant and it is my favorite Thai I’ve found so far in London. Weird decor, but good food.
Host Cafe – if you’re wandering around City of London and need a little coffee break, check out this cute cafe that is inside an old church.
HR Higgins Coffee – While we are on the subject of coffee, if you are out shopping on Oxford Street and need a break from the madness, hit up this cute little Mayfair coffee shop.
Honorable Mentions and Quick Food Options
- Wagamama
- Pret a Manger
- Eat
- Nando’s
- M&S Food to Go
- Pubs – because everyone’s gotta try fish and chips.
- Dumpling’s Legend (in Chinatown – open later than Din Tai Fung)
- Duck and Waffle
- Dishoom – people who love Indian food are obsessed with Dishoom
Obviously London is full of pubs, and if you need a quick pint, you won’t go far without finding one, but I’ve got a few bars and pubs I like a bit more than others.
The Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese on Fleet Street. I force all of my visitors to go here. It is my favorite pub of all time. It was REBUILT in 1667 after the Great Fire of London and it’s still chillin. So yeah, this pub is way older than America. The cellar bar (keep going down until you cant anymore) is my favorite.
You can make yourself a little bar crawl of my favorites while you’re on Fleet Street. Leave the Cheese and head up the street toward St. Paul’s (don’t worry, you’ll see it) and stop in to City of London Gin Distillery. You can do distillery tours, but I just always go in for drinks (and a bottle to take home).
From the gin distillery, keep making your way toward St. Paul’s and hit up my favorite bar in the city – Madison. I love Madison for its glorious view of St. Paul’s (you know how I feel about St. Paul’s). There is a dress code at busy times, so make sure you check it (aka don’t wear flip-flops or you’ll have to go to H&M and buy flats that are too small because your friends are already in the queue and you’re not gonna not go to happy hour with them). There’s an indoor bar and restaurant as well. Oh and the rooftop is open year round.
While we are talking about rooftop bars, let’s talk about Bar Elba (left image) and The Rooftop St. James (right). Bar Elba is in Waterloo and they have frosé, 2 for 1 cocktails at happy hour, and delicious burgers from Dip & Flip, so really you can’t go wrong. The Rooftop St. James has views of Trafalgar Square and the London Eye – you might have to book this one in advance.
If happy hour deals are what you’re looking for check out Simmons. There is quite a few locations. There’s nothing special about the decor or anything, but happy hour runs from 4 – 9PM and you can get TEAPOT COCKTAILS for £15. Yeah, a whole teapot of booze.
Camden Town Brewery – You can walk over to the little brewery from the Camden Market and enjoy some beers in the beer garden. I love me a Camden Hells.
Mr. Fogg’s – Mr. Fogg’s has multiple bars around the city, each with its own vibe, but all themed around Around the World in 80 Days. They all have amazing cocktails and amazing decor. I love Mr. Fogg’s Residence in Mayfair the most, but House of Botanicals and Society of Exploration were also a great time. I’m still making my way to the others.
Ain’t Nothin’ But – Blues bar with live music in Carnaby. It is tiny, but it has been a blast every time I’ve gone.
The George – Pub in London Bridge area (near Borough Market) with a nice outdoor courtyard.
Anchor Bankside – Good pub with outdoor seating on the river. Perfect for a jug of Pimm’s on a hot day.
Hampstead and Hampstead Heath. Such a cute little area and a huge park. Check out Parliament Hill for views of the city, and stop in the Holly Bush for a pint, you might even run into Sam Smith there (still freaking out about that).
ALL the parks. Grab some food and some booze and head to any of London’s beautiful parks for a picnic. All the parks are good for a nice wander as well. I love a good stroll through Hyde Park into Kensington Gardens.
Kensington Gardens 
Regent’s Park
Primrose Hill – another spot with epic views from the top of the hill, good picnic/park boozing potential, and a beautiful surrounding neighborhood. Winner winner, chicken dinner. Wow, I’m sorry I said that.
Anywho, my parents and I also stumbled across an adorable pub in Primrose – The Princess of Wales.
Notting Hill – I mean, DUH. Why wouldn’t you want to walk in Hugh and Julia’s footsteps and find the house with the blue door in Notting Hill (280 Westbourne Park Rd). Aside from fangirling over the movie locations, Notting Hill has a lot to offer. Portobello Road is always hoppin’, especially on the weekend when the market is in full force. It is an Instagrammer/influencer’s dream – So many beautiful streets and houses, so many mews. The houses in Notting Hill also go all out for seasonal decorating, especially halloween.
Are you still with me? Congrats! I promise I’m almost done. Just a couple other things.
Some Instagram/Facebook accounts to follow when planning your trip.
@secret.london @timeoutlondon @golondonfood
If you want to go on some day trips from London, here’s some I’ve been on.
And if you are the spreadsheet type, here she is. I could have given you this at the beginning, but I wanted to force you to look at all my pictures and read my ramblings first. Sucker.
I truly applaud you if you made it through this and don’t want to kill me for taking so much of your time. I tried to link as many things as possible. If you have other questions or want suggestions on mapping things out you can call me, beep me if you wanna reach me. But really just DM me on Insta.
tothandcotravels.com 